Upper East Side's normally tranquil atmosphere gets a spicy kick from Chiles.

Southern Indian cuisine has found a new home in New York, specifically on the Upper East Side.

In Sri Lanka's vibrant streets, the mutton roll is a staple snack that fits perfectly into the category of short eats, or shorties, which are designed for quick consumption on-the-go. Typically enjoyed by commuters rushing to catch trains, these snacks are also popular among schoolchildren seeking a tasty treat during their brief breaks. At Lungi, orders usually consist of two rolls each, featuring crispy exteriors giving way to a savory mixture of lamb and potatoes infused with robust curry flavors.

Achieving the ideal balance between crunch and texture requires precision. In this culinary tradition, snack preparation is elevated to an art form, demanding meticulous attention to detail.

As soon as the spicy peppers hit your taste buds, they begin to vibrate with heat. Initially, it's a sharp burn that intensifies over time, leaving you questioning whether this sensation is akin to a mythical dragon's fiery breath.

Lungi's scorching reputation has sparked debate about its claim to being the Upper East Side's hottest eatery.

The Upper East Side, once dominated by French and Italian eateries, has gradually warmed up to Japanese cuisine, with Thai options now scattered throughout its streets, catering to a more conservative palate.

At Lungi, servers politely inquire about your desired spice level, but a better approach is to let them decide. The cooks' preference for heat is not an all-consuming flavor, but rather one of many nuances that vary from dish to dish, ranging from bold and assertive to subtle.

The Chiles restaurant is situated just a short walk from a smoke shop and a dry cleaner, near the Queensboro Bridge. In 2024, Mervyn Winston and chef Albin Vincent transformed an Indian eatery into a southern India and Sri Lanka specialty restaurant, introducing a unique culinary experience to Manhattan's dining scene, where this type of cuisine is still relatively rare.

In recent years, American cities have witnessed a significant shift in Indian cuisine's popularity trajectory. Once northern Indian cooking held sway, albeit often watered down, a new wave of restaurants is now championing southern Indian flavors. This trend is exemplified by acclaimed eateries like Semma, Kanyakumari and Chatti in New York.

Born in Kanyakumari, the southernmost tip of mainland India, Vincent's early life was marked by loss when his parents passed away at just 6 years old. His grandparents, who had spent 25 years in Colombo, Sri Lanka's largest city, took on the responsibility of raising him. To recreate the warmth of his grandmother's kitchen, Vincent brought on board a team of culinary experts: Andru Simethy as executive chef, Bibymon Joy from Kerala to specialize in dosas, Thirunavukkarasu Mayagalan from Tamil Nadu as sous-chef, and Rushdhun Ramzy, representing Sri Lanka, who consistently delivered those sought-after golden mutton rolls.

Pancakes resembling miniature moons rise from the griddle, their edges curled upwards in anticipation of defying gravity. Rice, allowed to steep overnight, undergoes a transformation when ground with a stone, only to rest once more before fermenting into a frothy mixture. Coconut milk is the sole leavening agent in this process, infusing the batter with a subtle tanginess that's then poured into an appachatti, its curved shape reminiscent of a wok. As the pancake cooks, it develops a crispy exterior while retaining a soft, spongy center, perfect for cradling a poached egg if desired.

The Upper East Side's serene ambiance is suddenly invigorated by Chiles' presence. Lungi's culinary offerings showcase an impressive array of carbohydrates, each one a testament to its creative approach. String hoppers, for instance, are made from rice flour that's been mixed with hot water and then pressed through a sieve to create an airy yet chewy texture. The Malabar parota is another standout dish, featuring layers of dough that resemble the delicate folds of a croissant, albeit one that's been carelessly crumpled. A dosa inspired by Rameshwaram Cafe takes center stage, cooked at lower heat to preserve its tender softness and served with a generous sprinkling of milagai podi - a pungent blend of roasted lentils, seeds, chiles, and hing that's so potent it earned the nickname "gunpowder" among British colonials.

The Upper East Side's serene ambiance gets an unexpected boost from Chiles on Fridays, Saturdays or Sundays. The term "baby" refers to size rather than age, describing the milk shark, a slender fish with distinctive features: its snout and body are narrow, while its eyes appear haunted and its mouth is downturned. After steaming, the shark's flesh is removed from the bones and shredded until it resembles crab's fluffiness, then scrambled like eggs.

A symphony of curries unfolds on the menu, demonstrating how a harmonious blend of spices can produce an astonishing array of flavors. The addition of Guntur chiles imbues a medley of mushrooms with vibrant intensity, their heat tempered by subtle hints of guava's sweetness. Meanwhile, black chickpeas develop a rich depth as they simmer patiently alongside the more robust yet milder Byadgi chiles, whose neon hue and earthy undertones evoke the forest floor and cured meats.

The kitchen's attention to detail is evident in its dishes: succulent prawns retain their firm texture, while beef and goat meat become tender and yielding. The eggplant is transformed by vinegar into a sweet and sticky paste. A short-rib curry showcases the bone's flavor, with star anise adding a refreshing twist.

The essence of Indian cuisine is distilled in chutneys and sambols - intensely flavored condiments that bring a burst of tangy tomatoes, sweet caramelized onions, warm cinnamon, and citrusy coconut to the table.

Finishing your meal will be a warm, aromatic experience with payasam, a soothing soup made from coconut milk, delicate vermicelli noodles and rich cashews. Alternatively, you might prefer wattalapam, a creamy coconut custard served with a chunk of jaggery - a concentrated date palm sap boiled down to its essence. This sweetener is similar to sugar but has a milder flavor that doesn't leave an unpleasant aftertaste.

Lungi's ambiance can't match the opulence of new high-end Indian eateries like Musaafer, which boasts lavish decorations featuring mirror mosaics and Mughal arches. In contrast, Lungi's storefront is somewhat awkwardly divided into two narrow sections and a secluded skylit patio at the rear.

A lush green wall dominates the space, emblazoned with Lungi's name in elegant cursive LED lights, evoking the trendy aesthetic often seen in boba shops or luxurious villas featured on "Love Island." The overall décor is understated, characterized by a soothing color scheme of whites, browns and subtle grays.

Attentive service varied greatly during my visits, sometimes being spot-on and informed, other times lacking focus and appearing disengaged. Staffing issues one evening resulted in overflowing bathroom trash cans that obstructed the path.

Despite its typically serene ambiance, the Upper East Side is suddenly infused with a bold flavor thanks to Chiles. The aroma of curry leaves wafts through the air, electrifying senses. Your visit is centered around one primary goal: savoring the cuisine.

Our chief critic, Ligaya Mishan, who is based in New York City, pens starred restaurant reviews for the city and its surrounding areas. Meanwhile, Tejal Rao, our Los Angeles-based chief critic, covers restaurants across the country with her own starred reviews. Contributing critics Mahira Rivers and Ryan Sutton also contribute shorter reviews of New York eateries, which are featured in our weekly Where to Eat newsletter (subscribe here).